Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Just Add Coconut Milk

Greetings, American-lings. Sorry for my extended alienation from the communicative world, but I am alive and well, about 10 pounds lighter, much more freckly, a bit more blonde, and slightly more faka-Tonga (Tongan). I am back on the main island (Tongatapu) as of yesterday, when I flew in from Ha'apai as the ending of my PST, pre-service training. PST included 4 weeks of language training and 3 1/2 weeks of technical (education) training. It was a bit tiring and slightly overwhelming at times, but it was amazing! My host family was sooooo great!
Here are some brief hilights of my time on Ha'apai:
--My morning exercise (fakamalohisino) was accompanied by 3 great lady friends, a hilarious pack of dogs, pigs that the dogs loved to chase, and occasional chickens that squawked at our Palangi (white people) intrusion.
--I now speak a Tongan-English creole mix. Just wait until I talk to you on the phone. Then you'll understand. Or maybe you won't understand. Tehe.
--I sang in church with my host family, who I call the Von Trapps faka-Tonga. (Like from the Sound of Music.)
--My house was very Palangi...running water from the sima vai (water tank that Australians donated to all Tongan houses), a sink, a cold shower (which is great in such hot weather,) and 3 ovens! The ovens are because my former host mom is the bread baker for Foa, the island. She's pretty terrific.
--Baking was a huge event for my village group...pies, cakes, fried rice, potato casserole... my mom also loved it, because I taught her new recipes and gave her a journal of recipes for a going-away present!
--Tongans cook many dishes with coconut milk, and it is ifo aupito! (very delicious)
--I've probably swallowed a decent amount of small bones of fish and chicken and mutton because boneless meat does not exist here.
--Lava-lavas (sarongs) are ingenious. They are great for lounging AND going to the beach. Here, unless you're in the capital, you only wear pants/long shorts for fakamalohisino (exercise...remember?) :)
--For Thanksgiving, we Peace Corps Trainees and staff had a feast and it was great. My group made caramel pies, sweet potato pies (used with the delish purple sweet potatoes here...the pies were so pretty), a strawberry/yellow marble cake, and brownies. We were a hit.
--I've sang and played ukulele more here than I probably have my whole life, if you can beleive it. It's great though!
--For culture day, our last day in Ha'apai, I did the tau'olunga, basically a single ladies' dance. I wore tapa cloth, which pretty much turned into a strapless dress that they had to pin so my huhu (boobs) wouldn't fall out, and I was coated in oil so passers-by/supporters of the dance could stick money on me. Oh yeah, I rocked it. I'll post the video as soon as I can.
--My PC friends here are AMAZING!!! I have friends from all over now...so when I go back, I can tuh-ravvvellll, woot woot!
--Surprisingly, there are more midwesterners and southerners than far-Westies or North-easties. It's definitely not what I expected.
--There are 26 PC trainees (future volunteers...as of in a week and a day!) in our group, Group 76.
--I have a friend from Maine! Isn't that exciting?!!
--Coconut water is brilliantly awesome.
--I have a cell phone... please let me know if you want my number!
--Tongan choirs are great....a bit loud sometimes when they scream, but all around, it's awesome.
--I nicknamed my former host dad "mui mana", which translates to 'butt thunder." You can probably understand why.
--I'm constantly debating whether or not to cut my hair. Surprised?
--I can't believe it's almost Christmas. Holy moly. Hot weather and coconut trees do not communicate Christmas to me.
--Research "kava ceremonies" in the Pacific Islands... I will probably talk about it in the future. In a nutshell, I was a toua, which means server.
--I've read two great books, one is "The Left Hand of Darkness" by Ursula Leguin...my friend Whitney (whose wedding I was supposed to be in in Oct.) gave it to me, along with a million other books, and I loved it!
--So far, I've gotten two cards and one package. I've sadly not written as much as I thought I would during training, but I will have lots of free time in January, so hopefully i'll get more letters out!
--I have an awesome traditional Tongan outfit that my host family had made for me... it's a yellow with a top and tupenu (traditional skirt thing) with sea shells, turtles, and a kava bowl on it. Super cool.
--Google 'kiekie' or 'ta'ovala'. That's what we wear every day.
--It is now weird for me to see a guy in pants. I often do a double take.
--I have sexy tanlines on my arms. Really sexy ones.
--I wake up every morning to roosters, who, despite what you see in movies, do not only crow at 4-5 am. They also open their obnoxious beaks at 7 and 8 and 9 and 12 and 2 and 5 and 7 and 9... I friggin hate roosters now.
--I've been to one putu (funeral), and it was interesting. I have a video for it, too.

That's all I can think of now. In really important news, I will be sworn in (assuming all goes well...which means passing the oral Tongan exam and the policies test) on Dec. 15th, so my service starts Dec. 16th.
*Just a side note, I can't tell specific info. such as names (without permission) or my specific location. Oh, and my views and opinions are not the views and opinions of Peace Corps. I kind of had to do that.

Peace out, homedogs. I shall update soon, I hope!

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